A train passing a bank of white kash flowers
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The theme of the whole country

Six Seasons

The six seasons
Beautiful Bangladesh, anytime

Four seasons is a rounding error

The Bengali calendar divides the year into six seasons of two months each, and they are not decorative. Each one genuinely changes what the country looks like, what it eats, what it celebrates and how you travel through it.

The same forest you row a boat through in July can be walked in January. The same field that is under a metre of water in August is gold with rice in November. Pick the season, then pick the place, not the other way round.

Right now it is Monsoon. Each panel below can take over the whole site.

Summer in Bangladesh
01 / 06 গ্রীষ্ম Summer
April to May 28 to 38 °C Called Grishmo

Mango season. The heat sits on the north at 38 degrees and half the country lives on fruit.

Jackfruit splits open on the tree, lychees come down from Dinajpur, and the honey collectors go into the Sundarbans with smoke and a knife. Long days, hard light, and everything worth doing happens before ten in the morning or after five in the afternoon.

Best in Rajshahi, Chapainawabganj, Sundarbans

What this season is for

  • Mango orchards in Rajshahi and Chapainawabganj
  • Honey collecting season in the Sundarbans
  • Sunrise walks in the hill tracts before the heat
  • Green coconut on every corner, cut in front of you
Monsoon in Bangladesh
02 / 06 বর্ষা Monsoon
June to July 25 to 32 °C Called Borsha

The rivers double in width and the whole delta floats. This is the season the country was built for.

Ratargul swamp forest goes under twenty to thirty feet of water and you row through the canopy. Boat racing starts. The waterfalls in Bandarban run at full volume. Rain arrives in heavy bursts rather than all day, and the light afterwards is extraordinary.

Best in Sylhet, Bandarban, Barishal

What this season is for

  • Row through the flooded Ratargul swamp forest
  • Nouka Baich, monsoon boat racing
  • Nafakhum and Amiakhum falls at full flow
  • Two nights on a houseboat at Tanguar Haor
Autumn in Bangladesh
03 / 06 শরৎ Autumn
August to September 26 to 33 °C Called Sharat

White kash flowers riot along every riverbank under a sky scrubbed clean.

The sharpest light of the year: towering clouds with hard blue between them. Kash grass flowers on the newest land in the country, the sandbars the rivers laid down last season, and it is over in a fortnight. Floating markets are at their best.

Best in Padma banks, Barishal, Dhaka

What this season is for

  • Kash fields along the Padma and at Diabari
  • Floating guava market at Bhimruli
  • Durga Puja in Old Dhaka
  • Paddle steamer south with the windows open
Late Autumn in Bangladesh
04 / 06 হেমন্ত Late Autumn
October to November 20 to 30 °C Called Hemanto

Harvest. The paddy goes gold, the air smells of new rice, and the villages hold pitha nights.

Mild, dry and the easiest window for a first trip. Nabanna, the new rice festival, moves through the villages. The first migratory birds drop into the wetlands. Almost nobody outside Bangladesh has heard of this season, and it may be the best one.

Best in Rangpur, Bogura, Sylhet

What this season is for

  • Paddy harvest across the north
  • Nabanna, the new rice festival
  • First winter birds at Tanguar and Hakaluki
  • Village pitha made with fresh molasses
Winter in Bangladesh
05 / 06 শীত Winter
December to January 10 to 24 °C Called Sheet

Fog on the wetlands, date palm sap dripping into clay pots, birds by the hundred thousand.

Cool, dry and clear once the morning fog lifts. Peak season for heritage, hill trekking and birdwatching. Paharpur at seven in the morning, with the fog still sitting on the monastery, is the photograph of the year.

Best in Naogaon, Sylhet, Bandarban

What this season is for

  • Birdwatching at Tanguar and Hakaluki Haor
  • Paharpur and Mahasthangarh at dawn
  • Khejur gur, date palm molasses, fresh
  • Trekking in Bandarban
Spring in Bangladesh
06 / 06 বসন্ত Spring
February to March 18 to 30 °C Called Bosonto

Palash and shimul burn red across bare branches and the whole country goes outdoors.

Warm days, flowering trees, and the densest festival month of the year: Pohela Falgun, the Ekushey book fair spread across Dhaka University, Shivratri at Chandranath. Mustard fields are still yellow in the first weeks and everyone wears yellow with them.

Best in Dhaka, Sitakunda, Srimangal

What this season is for

  • Pohela Falgun on 13 February
  • Ekushey Boi Mela, all of February
  • The barefoot climb up Chandranath hill
  • Tea gardens flushing their first new leaf
If you only get one trip

Which season should you take

Late AutumnEasiest first visit, Oct to Nov
WinterHeritage, birds and trekking, Dec to Jan
MonsoonThe country at its most itself, Jun to Jul
SpringFestivals and flowering trees, Feb to Mar
Bangladesh Tourism Board

Come while it is still yours to find