Beautiful Bangladesh
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Beautiful Bangladesh, anytime Right now it is Monsoon

Six Seasons. 700 Rivers. One Delta.

Most countries get four seasons. Bangladesh counts six, and turns into a different country for each one. Come in July and the forests are underwater. Come in January and the same land is gold, dry and full of birds.

Scroll into the seasons
Twelve places, one country

Pick one. We will get you in.

Hover any picture to bring it back into colour. Click it and we will work out whether you need a visa.

Royal Bengal tiger crossing a channel in the Sundarbans The SundarbansMangrove, tiger, tide Visit The Sundarbans TodayCheck if you need a visa → Palms and a fishing boat on turquoise water at Cox's Bazar Cox's Bazar120 km of unbroken sand Visit Cox's Bazar TodayCheck if you need a visa → A lone tree above a sea of cloud at sunrise in Sajek Valley Sajek ValleyWake up above the cloud Visit Sajek Valley TodayCheck if you need a visa → Turquoise water over the coral shelf at Saint Martin's Island Saint Martin'sThe only coral island Visit Saint Martin's TodayCheck if you need a visa → A boat in a green tunnel of trees in the Ratargul swamp forest RatargulRow through a flooded forest Visit Ratargul TodayCheck if you need a visa → Light through the trees over a railway line near Srimangal Srimangal150 tea gardens Visit Srimangal TodayCheck if you need a visa → Aerial view of passenger launches crowded along the river at Dhaka Old DhakaA river port that never stopped Visit Old Dhaka TodayCheck if you need a visa → A boat in an emerald gorge between cliffs in Bandarban BandarbanGorges and waterfalls Visit Bandarban TodayCheck if you need a visa → A boat on the clear emerald water of Tanguar Haor Tanguar HaorAn inland sea, every monsoon Visit Tanguar Haor TodayCheck if you need a visa → The Sixty Dome Mosque at Bagerhat seen down its garden path BagerhatA mosque city from 1450 Visit Bagerhat TodayCheck if you need a visa → The ruins of Somapura Mahavihara at Paharpur in golden light PaharpurThe monastery of Somapura Visit Paharpur TodayCheck if you need a visa → Fishing boats on the sand at Kuakata under an orange sunset KuakataSunrise and sunset, same water Visit Kuakata TodayCheck if you need a visa →

Every one of these has a full guide in Destinations.

The six seasons
Monsoon in Bangladesh
02 / 06 বর্ষা Monsoon
June to July 25 to 32 °C Called Borsha

The rivers double in width and the whole delta floats.

Ratargul swamp forest goes under twenty to thirty feet of water and you row through the canopy.

Best in Sylhet, Bandarban, Barishal

What this season is for

    All six seasons in detail
    The circulatory system

    The country is a river

    Every line on this map is a real, named river, drawn from survey geometry. Watch the pulse: that is the direction the water goes, off the Himalaya, across the delta, into the Bay of Bengal. It does this on a schedule, every year, and the whole country is arranged around it.

    Dhaka

    487Named rivers on this map
    PadmaCurrently highlighted
    14 kmWidth of the Jamuna in flood

    Hover any point. Nine of about ninety places worth the trip.

    6Seasons, officially
    700+Rivers and channels
    120 kmUnbroken sea beach
    3UNESCO sites
    Boats silhouetted on a river at sunset

    You do not visit the delta. You float on it and let it take you somewhere.

    Paddle steamer, Dhaka to Barisal, running since 1928
    Things you can only do here

    Nine reasons to come now

    Royal Bengal tiger crossing water
    01

    Track a swimming tiger

    Sundarbans tigers cross tidal channels between islands. Three day boat safaris out of Khulna and Mongla, with forest department guides.

    Read more →
    Tea garden in Srimangal
    02

    Drink seven layers of tea

    In Srimangal a man worked out how to layer seven densities of tea in one glass. It should not hold together. It does.

    Read more →
    Sunlight through the Ratargul swamp forest
    03

    Paddle a flooded forest

    Ratargul is a freshwater swamp forest that spends the monsoon under 20 to 30 feet of water. You go in by rowing boat, through the branches.

    Read more →
    Traditional boat race with rowers in yellow
    04

    Watch a hundred oars hit at once

    Monsoon boat racing. Boats up to 30 metres long, villages on the banks, drums setting the stroke.

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    Weaver's hands working a Jamdani loom
    05

    Watch cloth being drawn by hand

    Jamdani weaving near Dhaka is on the UNESCO intangible heritage list. Two weavers, one loom, six months for a single sari.

    Read more →
    Hilsa fish at a Bangladeshi market
    06

    Eat hilsa where it is caught

    The national fish, and an argument. Chandpur claims the best. Go in the monsoon, eat it with mustard, and take a side.

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    Flock of migratory birds over a wetland
    07

    Count winter birds by the thousand

    From November the wetlands of Sylhet fill with migratory ducks and waders off the Central Asian flyway. Bring a boat and a flask.

    Read more →
    Hand painted rickshaw art panel
    08

    Commission rickshaw art

    Dhaka's rickshaw painting joined the UNESCO list in 2023. The workshops in Bangshal will paint you anything, including you.

    Read more →
    Giant folk effigies at the Bengali new year procession
    09

    Walk in the new year parade

    Bengali new year, 14 April. Giant papier mache birds, elephants and suns carried through Dhaka by art students since 1989.

    Read more →
    Moving art gallery

    A million canvases, all of them in traffic

    Rickshaw painting entered the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list in December 2023. Dhaka has roughly a million rickshaws. Do the maths.

    Rickshaw art panel
    Folk painting motif
    Painted rickshaws in Dhaka traffic
    Embroidered quilt panel
    Terracotta relief from a temple in Dinajpur
    Festival effigy at Bengali new year
    Jamdani loom detail
    Pottery from a village workshop
    Terracotta panels at Puthia
    Street scene in Old Dhaka
    Mosque arches
    Festival idol in Dhaka
    Eat first, ask later

    Explore the food of Bangladesh

    Ten dishes worth building a trip around. Rice, river fish, slow beef, and a sweet course the country takes seriously.

    A plate of kacchi biryani with mutton and potato
    Kacchi biryani Old Dhaka

    Raw mutton, aged rice and potato sealed in a pot and cooked slowly over coal. The wedding dish, and an argument about which shop does it best.

    Hilsa fish in a yellow mustard gravy
    Ilish bhapa Chandpur and Barishal

    Hilsa steamed in mustard paste and green chilli. The national fish, in the dish that treats it with the most respect.

    Bhuna khichuri served with beef
    Bhuna khichuri Everywhere, in the rain

    Rice and lentils fried down together with whole spice. What the whole country eats when the monsoon arrives.

    Dark slow cooked beef kala bhuna in a bowl
    Kala bhuna Chattogram

    Beef cooked down for hours until the gravy turns almost black. Chattogram's signature, and not remotely subtle.

    Prawn curry in a red coconut gravy
    Chingri malai curry Khulna and the coast

    Prawns in coconut milk, sweet and thin enough to drink. Best where the prawns come out of the water an hour earlier.

    Rice served with several bhorta mashes
    Bhorta thali Every home

    Mashes: aubergine, dried fish, potato, coriander, chilli. Five or six of them around a plate of rice, and it beats most restaurant food.

    Crisp fuchka shells with tamarind water
    Fuchka Every street corner, evening

    Crisp hollow shells filled with spiced potato and chickpea, dunked in tamarind water. Negotiate the chilli level before you commit.

    Steamed bhapa pitha rice cake on a plate
    Bhapa pitha Winter, at dusk

    Steamed rice cakes with date palm molasses in the middle, made only in the cold months and sold from pavement stoves.

    Sweet yoghurt in a clay pot
    Mishti doi Bogura

    Sweet yoghurt set in an earthen pot, which is half the flavour. Bogura's is the one people carry home on the bus.

    A tray of golden chomchom sweets
    Chomchom Porabari, Tangail

    Dense syrup soaked sweets, a Tangail speciality since the nineteenth century. Buy a kilo. It will not last the drive.

    Not our footage

    Three people went and filmed it

    Independent vlogs by travellers with no connection to us. Watch them here, or open them on YouTube where the creators get the credit.

    Ready made routes

    Five journeys, start to finish

    Unedited

    What it actually looks like

    Aerial view of boats moored on a river bend
    Boats at anchor, monsoon
    Light through the Ratargul swamp forest
    Ratargul, Sylhet
    Mustard field at sunset
    Mustard, late winter
    Floating market in Barishal
    Floating market, Barishal
    Flock of migratory birds
    Wetlands, winter
    Fog over Paharpur ruins
    Paharpur at dawn
    Sunset over the Padma with fishing boats
    Padma, end of the day
    Bangladesh Tourism Board

    Come while it is still yours to find

    Around a million foreign visitors a year, in a country of 170 million. You will not be queuing behind anyone.